Neo-goth-Not so unique.

This photograph sums up the modern 'neo-goth', from what used to be unique is now an every day trend on the highstreet being transformed. Pieces being reused and recycled and released with a new twist like the glasses shown above, now being sold in topshop and in various colours, now being related to the typical hipster aswell as a neo-goth

Iv also noticed that form looking around london and various areas where iv seen the typical neo-goth like brick lane, camden, they also share the typical twisted hair bun with hipsters.



Where it all began

When researching about 'neo-goths' there was little about the subculture and i began to see that this subculture wasnt originally formed due to fashion like most subcultures, but began with art in the 1980's. Neo-goths began as artists usually creating paintings, photography and sculptures which would explain why all modern neo-goths follow the trend of carrying around a film camera.

Floria Sigismondi was  known for being a neo-gothic artist, and from there now operates professional art studios and even direct music videos for musicians like Marilyn Manson or making CD cover art for gothic bands like Evanescence. But what interests me the most is her perogative yet gothic photography.

You can also see more of her work on  her website

Paint me black

Appearance- Girl or boy.

Not only designers have adopted this subculture, but also celebrities with the likes of agyness deyn and taylor momsen, which have brought this subculture even more to light and made it mroe appealing to the eye.

I found a piece that said 'The movement emphasizes the bizarre, obscene, sexual, blasphemous, mysterious, horrific and gender-confusion/androgyny' i was drawn to the gender confusion, I have realised its become a clique for a typical Neo-goth to wear unisex clothing, and often share the same haircuts, more so now, black bob/bowl cuts.

Religeous fregments to their outfits such as crosses, with places such as urban outfitters and topshop even producing clothes along this range making it a highstreet fashion. And now anticrist have become a craze also.

the colour black remaining throughout with hints of other dark colours, but now texture has become a huge part of this subculture, mixing leathers, with suedes and chunky or loose knits, sheer fabrics with heavy bold fabrics. All together creating a collectic layered look.

Neo goth- Modern Fashion

The Subculture 'Neo-goth' has becoem a huge topic/theme within the fashion industry, its been adapted and transformed into something commercial thanks to designers such as

Gareth Pugh

 Hannah Marshall

Yves Saint Laurent

Givenchy

Because of designers like these the Subculture has become a more accepted and mainstream subculture compared to the original 'goth' which is known for being more hidden and rare.

Subculture- Comparing and linking.

We were given the task of comparing and linking two given subcultures, mine were Sloane Rangers and Varsity, i linked them through there education, both being private school associated, sports orientated, and there 'preppy' clothing.

The Island

Londons True Map.
A drawing by Stephen Walter in 2008, The map shows the hole of london but with a more personal touch, with subcultures named, slang or symbolic words for each area, street, shop.

My chosen Sub Culture

I've decided to focus my research on Neo-Goths. I found this really appealling and could be really interesting as its become so popular int he past year or two amoung designers and day to day people. I will explore the clothes, music, shops, designers and popular hang out points that involve this sub culture. I will also collect street style photos as i go as well as document the areas/places i visit that represent this sub culture.

Beautiful Losers

A documentary about a collective group of do-it-yourself artists and designers, it follows their lives and careers and shows how inadvertently affected the art world.

Sub Cultures- Blitz Kids

Blitz Kids were a subcultured formed from the New Romantic Movement, they were a group of young people who often went to the Blitznightclub in Covent garden in the early 1980's. People associated with the Blitz kids were people such as Boy george, Steve Strange and Martin Degville. They were a unique group of people known for their outrageous style of clothes and makeup. 

Sub Cultures- Pyscho Billy.

Pyscho Billy started with its underground popularity in Europe in the early 1980's. Mixing rock music with elements of punk, rock-a-billy and goth, with refrences of horror, violence and sexuality. The Meteors were the first verifiable psychobilly band in London in 1980, and in 1982 the club Klub Foot opened in Hammersmith becoming a center for Britain's emerging psychobilly movement. They borrowed key fashion statements from the 1950's rockabilly and rock and roll, males often shaved there heads into quiffs or Military style crops, they also wore alot of leather, especially leather jackets, aswell as Dr martens.

This is a song by the Sharks about PyschoBilly hair cuts

Sub Cultures- New Romantics

The new Romantics where a young fashion movement in the 1970's in the UK. It was associated with the New wave scene that was around at the same time. The sub culture was associated with bands such as adam and the ants and duran duran. They took fashion to the next level with there theatrical outfits, flamboyant, colourful dramatic look with use of frills and luscious fabrics associated with historical periods.

Sub Cultures- Rock-a-Billy.

Rock-a-billy emerged in the 1950's being one of the first styles to come from rock and roll music. However other music such as western swing, blues and, country music were a big influence on this subculture. Rock-a-billy for women is often associated with pin-up girls, as a rock-a-billy girl would often wear a-line skirts, tight fitted cardigans, stilettos,head bandanas, red lipstick and stockings. A male would normally be seen in, drainpipes turned up, braces, wife beaters, bowling shirts,creepers, quiffed hair.Many designers have used this as inspiration for collections, as well as celebrities such as katy perry who still dress in the same style.

Sub Cultures- Fetishists.

Fetishists are people who have a form of sexual desire in which gratification depends to an abnormal degree on some object or item of clothing or part of the body. Known for wearing clothing such as leather, pvc, latex, gimp masks, and other pieces of sexual clothing. Fetishists are people who have a fetish normally of a sexual nature. Many designers has taken inspiration from this such as Givenchy who recently had head pieces inspired by gimp masks.

Sub Cultures- B-boys.

B-Boy is a subculture that started in the 1980's based around break dancing, a style of dance associated with hip hop. They often wear baggy clothes, large oversize tshirts, baggy jeans and trainers, whats comfortable to dance in and allows alot of movement.

Sub Cultures- Harajuku Kids.

Harajuku is a urban Japanese street style where kids dress in fun and outrageous costumes and hang around outside Harajuku Station in Japan. There is no clear style or pattern to this subculture except for its outrageousness throughout, they dress as anime characters or just in fun playful comstumes they have created themselves. It first became popular in the 1990's when there was a great amount of street performers and teenagers all gathered on a sunday when the roads were closed. Harajuku has now become more and more part of fashion with designers taking inspiration from this, as well as artist like singing Gwen Stefani who used this idea and has formed her own group of Harajuku girls.

Sub Cultures- Indie Kids.

Indie comes from the 'independant' music scene, the community of bands and their fans. This has been transformed into a subculture from these bands and the fashion in which they have created though their music. Often associated with gigs and fastivals with bands such as The Kooks, Kings of leon, Getcapewearcapefly, Larrikin Love and Babyshambles. Although Indie began as being 'independant' and individual is has now become quite the opposite and has become a huge subculture that is no longer individual. Idnie kids normally follow the same dress code being, Skinny jeans (drainpipes), flannel checked shirts, cardigans, band tshirts, waistcoats, general vintage apparel, trilbys, ankle boots and winkle pickers, with messy hair.

Sub Cultures- SkinHeads.

Skinheads, formed in the 1960's, influenced by the west indian rude boys and mods for their fashion, music, and lifestyle. Traditional Skinheads were more influenced by the 1970's punk subculture,  but with shaven heads, tighters jeans,shirts or polo's, big boots such at Dr martens,blazers, braces, Silk handkerchiefs in the breast pocket of the Crombie-style overcoat , tattoos and piercings (less mod influenced). Most Female skinheads had Feathercuts,  A feathercut is short on the crown, with a fringe at the front, back and sides. The TV series 'this is england' is based around the skinheads and their way of living.

Sub Cultures- Ravers.

'Ravers' the name for a party animal in the 1980's, Known for their constant raving in acid house parties with fast-paced electronic music and light shows. Electronic Dance music would be played with laser light shows, it began fromt he acid house scene  and soon transormed into the underground youth movement of 'Ravers'. They often had glow sticks and neon painted faces that glowed in the Laser Lights, and wore neon coloured clothes, often women in bikini tops.

Sub Cultures- Trashbats.

Trashbats, a satire on the shoreditch crowd, dirty jeans and converse. A programme called Nathan Barley is based around this culture, the character Nathan Barley 'takes his own temperature as permanently cool, while anyone else's cultural thermometer would measure him as damp with embarrassment'. There is also a website http://www.trashbats.co.ck/ based around the TV programme.

Sub Cultures- Chavs.

Chavs are the stereotype of a certain working class background youth in the UK, They're known for their anti-sociable behaviour, often found lurking about the streets; drinking, smoking, swearing and extremely rowdy. A distinct look comes with the name though that allows you to differ these teenagers from others, a very intimidating look involving, baggy tracksuits or trouser, caps or hoods hiding their faces, trainers, axcessive jewellery, tattoos. For women the essex face lift is popular, which is where they scrape there hair back tight off their faces, fake tan is also a main distinction for a female chav.
Music such as hip-hop, Grime and rap, artists such as lethal bizzle, Ndubs and Lady Sovereign.

Sub Cultures- Sloanes.

A Sloaner is a young, upper-middle class person who lives in the richer parts of london such as sloane square. They follow the same lifestyle and most of all the same fashion. Originally known for wearing Twin-sets and pearls, Barbours and Hunters, giving a 'preppy' look (princess Diana). However this trend has now become a more every day wear with companies such as Hollister, Amercrombe and Fitch and Jack Wills, who have taken this trend and made it available to anyone.

Sub Cultures- Club Kids

Club Kids were a group of yound club personalities in the late 1980's and early 1990's in New York City. Known for their leaders Michael Alig and James St. James and noticable for their eccentric outfits and great use of drugs! Alig became almost famous for his entourage of Club Kids. They became so known that they even appeared on several talk shows such as donahue The club kids became an international trend influencing the party scenes all over the world.

Often dress in bright, bold colours and patterns, lots of chunky jewellery (gold chains) almost like fancy dress, they want to be noticed!

Sub Cultures- New Wave+ No Wave

New Wave became a subgenre from rock music, but alot more electronic. It became the definition for new underground music in the UK. It came about in the mid-late 1970's, was more about the sounds it created rather than the attitude which alot of subculture at the time were more about such as the 'Punk' Movement.

Artist such as The Human League, Blondie, The Cure and Echno and the Bunnymen would all be classed as New Wave.

Bright bold clothes, often block colours, or black and white to create eccentric outfits.

No Wave was a brief scene based around underground music, contemporary art and film. It began in the mid 1970's in New York City, a word play against the New Wave genre. Its wasnt a clearly defined subculture as it drew characteristics from various styles such as punk rock, blues and jazz, however the music was more definable.

Sub Cultures- Disco Trannies.

Disco Trannies are transvestites well known amoung the gay club scene, often more extravagant, more about the 'glamour and glits'. Can also be seen as celebritys amoung the gay community such as Jodie Harsh and Mika Doll, Black balloon promoters, well known in clubs in and around London, such as Circus and Punk.

Big full faces of makeup, wigs or large hair, lots of glitter and bright bold colours, Often into pop punk/electro music.

Sub Cultures- Hippies.

Hippies, originally a youth movement that arose in the mid 1960's in the United States. They were known for listening to psychedelic rock music, using drugs and embrassing sexual revolution, freeing themselves from societal restrictions. Their appearence made them extremely recogniseable, using techniques such as tie dye to create bright bold patterns, the use of symbols such a 'peace', wearing head bands and beading, flared trousers, and very natural. Hippie has now been transformed and made comercial with the 'boho' scene with designers such as D&G 2008 Fall collection.

Sub Cultures- Metal Head

Metal Head is someone who is mainyly influenced by metal music. known for having long shaggy hair, baggy trousers, a very relaxed ,outgrown look. Renound for hanging around at gigs (metal gigs). head banging was a big thing associated with metal music, banging the head back and forth while the long hair swooshed behind.

Sub Cultures- Neo-Goth.

Neo-goth is a modern take on goth, a more sophisticated look on the original sub culture that has been adapted by some of the latest fashion designers. This has made the trend more open and sociable rather than 'goth' which is known for being an outsider. The Black is still the main key to this look however with more texture, layering and with a modern twist.

Designers such as Gareth Pugh are the corporates for this new subculture, taking inspiration form 'goths' and making it into something fresh and more exceptable to the public. Using textured fabrics, chunky knits, laddering and layering, leathers and buckles but most of all the touch of religion, accessorizing in crosses....or antichrists?

Sub Cultures- Goths.

Goth originated from A germanic tribe who invaded the late roman empire along with the vandals, however now has become a subculture of people known for dressing head to toe in black, including hair and makeup, and listening to gothic rock. The subculture began in britian in the early 1980's, an outcome formed from the post-punk genre. The opening of the Batcave in London's Soho in July 1982 became a prominenent scene for the forming subculture.

Goths often dressed in black, leather and lace with aspects taken from Elizabethan, Victorian or Medieval periods. Black dyed hair, dark black makeup, often with religious imagery incorporated in their outfits. Music such and suicide silence, bauhaus ect

Goth has also been associated with worshipping satin, self harming, depression, and witchery which is where the use of black comes from.

Goth is now transforming and changing into something more modern 'neo-goth'

Sub Cultures-Rockers.

Rockers named by the mods and skinheads as the 'Greasers' were a subculture assosiated with motorcycles and rock and roll music that originated in the UK in the 1950's. 'Brylcreem' conjures up images of Teddy Boys and Rockers, slick back, greased hair, as seen on Elvis. Often geared head to toe in leather, biker jackets, White tees, drainpipes and heavy boots. They were known for clashing with the Mods. Rock Music soon progressed from elvis presley to the rolling stones, a more relaxed look, often long permed hair and flared jeans but still maintaining the same music, just with a new fresh look...

Sub Cultures- Soulboy.

Fans of the American Soul and Funk music, Soulboys were a working-class, English subculture of the late 70's early 80's. Clubs such as The Royalty in southgate and The Goldmine in Canvery Island were often scenes known to the Soulboy subculture. The subculture was easily forgotten due to other overpowering subcultures at the same time, however the film 'soulboy' released in 2010 brought this to people attention!

Suc Cultures- Mod.

Mod was a subculture that originated in the late 1950's in London. Mod being short for 'modernist' they were known for being working-class dandies, often in tailored suits, motor scooters, and pop music. Jobling and Crowley called the mod subculture a "fashion-obsessed and hedonistic cult of the hyper-cool" young adults who lived in metropolitan London. Boutiques were popular amoung the Mod's with designers such as Mary Quantand John Stephen. They were also known for all night clubbing, and drug use.
The song "Dedicated follower of fashion" by The Kinks from 1966 jokes about the fashion obsession of the mod community.

Sub Cultures- Punk.

Punk was a movement that began in America and Britain in the 70's, it was a way of youths rebelling against society and religion, expressing their beliefs/interests 'i am an anticrist' (as quoted by johnny potten) . They expressed this not only with fashion, but music also played a big part in this, being a loud, aggressive genre of rock music called punk rock!

Punk was known for its unique use of clothing, hairstyles, tattoos and jewellery. Oftern adapting everyday objects for aesthetic effect: ripping clothing and holding it together with studs and safety pins, using razor blades and bones as jewellery (as done by Vivienne westwood also), tight drainpipes, often use of tartan and leather, studs and spikes, Dr martins and Creepers, but most of all punks were known for their extravagant hair. Mohawks! spiking the hair up using sugar water to create a hair style not to be missed.

Punk is still around and has become a masssive influence on the fashion industry thanks to Vivienne Westwood, who herself was a punk. She designer clothes for the punks of london such as tops decorated in bones and safety bins, and her use of tartan, studs and recycling old british trends.

Alexander Wang Fall 2010

Sub Cultures

After looking at shops and the clothes in which they sell its brought me onto sub cultures, the way in which people behave, express but most of all how they dress. Im going to look at the following subcultures in depth to find this.
Punk, Mod, Soul boy, Rocker, Goth, Neo Goth, Metal Head, Americana, Folk, Hippy, Disco Trannies and Vogue-ers, New wave, No wave, Club kids, Sloanes, Victoriana, Trashbats, Cosmic, Baggies, Chavs, Ravers, New rave, Skin Heads, Indie kids, B-Boys, Harajuku kids, Industrial Goth, Crusties, Rock-a-billy, Grunge, Fetishists and Wags