Interview.

Punk.

Punk is a club iv been to regulary in central london (Oxford street), although not the usual hangout area for this subculture it does seem to attract rather alot. Even with its upbeat music, bright lights and its cheesey multi coloured atmousphere it still seems to be a hangout location for my chosen subculture.

Scene- Warehouse Party.

Club Boy Warehouse Party 25-03-11

the Warehouse party was an obvious attraction the subculture of neo-goths, with its black and white interior, dull atmouspher, and futuristic beats. Girls and guys sharing the same outfits, ripped and ladders jeans and shorts, buttoned up sheer shirts, religious symbols and lots of leather and knits! it had a real chilled out atmousphere, people stumbling about with drinks in hand, and floating away to the music. no raving, no dubstep, just flashing lights of cameras documenting the night, and huddles of groups of people, all looking rather a like. alot less heavy drug taking to a normal warehouse party, no pills just a touch of charlie and a good drink it seemed... the club had a very hipster feel to it, lots of vintage, lots of layers. with its typical gig scene toilets with girls huddles around the mirror in vanity, grimey floors and a single row of tiny cubicles this was no luxury night out. cheap booze, cheap drugs, cheap night.

Music tracks and videos.

i began looking at music tracks i thought related to my chosen subculture, i found artists like Crystal castles and the XX are good examples of the style of music my subculture seem to listen too. quite chilled out music with abit of a hipster feel to it but more dull and gothic.

The XX - Crystalised. i thought The video was perfect for this subculture, with the clouds effect nd the ban dress all in black with accessorise such as silver chain necklaces, small hooped earings and accessive rings.

Crystal Castles- Courtship Dating. i thought this video really showed what he band are like, with the lead singer and h typical boyish black bob cut hair and blacked out eyes its obvious how this ban relates to my subculture, however unlike the XX, Crystal castls sound is alot more electronic.

Guide- Video/films.

As my fashion story was based around such inspiring films to my subculture iv chosen to look into the films themselves...

Beetlejuice-  A dark comedy film directed by Tim burton released in 1988, with gothic characers such as Lydia dresed head to toe in black and bettlejuice himself in a black and white striped suit, and with touches of polaroid camera theres no doubt this film represents the new gothic take on fashion 'neo-goth'.

 

 Edward Scissorhands- Again another twisted Tim Burton film in 1990, The film shows the story of an artificial man named Edward, an unfinished creation, who has scissors for hands. Edward being the main character is dressed in a black leathered and buckled outfit contrasting with the bright surroundings. the character is made to be an outcast which i think relflects on the subculture neo-goth alot as they tend to cut hemselves off from others and hang around in small groups of others like themselves.

These two films have also been huge inspirations for may designers such as Gareth Pugh who are known or being the new 'neo-goth' designers.

Guide- Fashion Story.

For my 'Fashion story' i chose Tim Burtons 'Trick or reats' shoot by Tim Walker featuring in Harpers Bizarre October 2009. The shory is based around various films directed by Tim Burton all of which have a new gothic twist to them, such as; Edward scissor hands and Beetlejuice. The shoot really captures the neo-goth vibe with its black on black outfits contrasting with blood red roses. Its based around his typically gothic films which to thi day are still a big hit amoungst the neo-goth scene and are used as almost inspiration.

A Guide into the life of a Neo-goth

Recent related- Work.

My Designers-Hannah Marshall.

Hannah Marshall is a fresh faced designer from London, she studied at Colchester school of art and design and established her label in 2007. Her focus has been on creating constructed yet feminine pieces and has been credited with 'reinventing the little black dress'. Again as a designer her personal style reflects my chosen subculture neo-Goth, with long black hair and a striking block fringe, angular black eyebrows and a clear liking to the colour black. We can see this clearly reflects on her designs.

For her A/W 09 collection Hannah had brought super stylish band Ipso Facto along to play a gig in her designs. They were the ideal models for the clothes with their shiny asymmetric hair and bold make up. With structured leather shoulders, draping sheer and this amazing harness item the collection was a gothic infusion bursting with key factors to the subculture.

Her sharply refined pieces show a great attention to detail. With black being at the forefront of each collection I love her use of contrasting leather and chiffon to create a contemporary feel.  Without the distraction of colour Marshall is able to play with texture and structure to create pieces that appeal to the minimalistic audience, And although her pieces seem very simplistic with only subtle detailing the layering effect and use of contrasting fabrics creates a busy feel to her pieces.  

Her A/W 10 collection continued the subtle detailing and black on black with sheer shoulders and revealing slashes, sexy mini dresses and tailored jackets came complete with subtle slits only visible when the pieces moved, inspired by pictures taken of eighties icon Grace Jones by photographer Jean-Paul Goude. And to finish off the pieces with accessories designed especially for the collection by Hannah and luxe jewellery designer Hannah Martin, sculptural silver rings that could double up as weapons. This has by far got to be my favourite collection of hers, introducing midnight blues and metallic charcoals to the colour spectrum, and the use of new fabrics other that sheer and leather, such as velvet and mohair.  The collection seems a bit more unique and stands out from the others with the black slick back hair-do with blonde tips and vibrant blue lips. The collection has an almost futuristic feel to it.

Hannah Marshal wanted to strip back her silhouette for her S/S11 collection concentrating on privacy and identity. With a nod to the 90's, Helmut Lang and Jil Sander, Hannah's collection began with a chic subtle second skin of sheers and grew to become 4D as vertical strips slowly crept into the collection, decorating the hips, shoulders and encasing the chest. The collection opened with her signature black and gradually became lighter with a putty palette of grey, chalk and mint

(Her moodboard for the collection)

Inspired by the new collection for S/S11 by Hannah Marshall, Rankin has shot a short film consisting of a series of dark images reflecting her continuing style, overlapping and often weaving in and out like a dream. The new video for the British designer features floating, writhing bodies and haunting imagery to an emotive soundtrack. The mysterious video mostly in black, white and dark tones features models in Marshall's signature black clothing in silk chiffons and mesh, leaving much to the imagination.

My Designers-Mandy Coon

Mandy Coon, is a fairly new designer known for her structural and dark moody designs with her first collection for New York fashion week in S/S 2010, Previously Apprenticing with minimalist desgner Camilla staerk. Mandy coon herself comes very much under the neo-Goth spectrum with her black boy cut hair and black on black style and as she stated “I know you’re not supposed to say this, but honestly, I’m making the clothes I want to wear,” so we know the clothes are going to be inspired by herself and the scenes in which she is associated with. She is also known for her occasional DJ’ing, featuring as a model, and is mad about films. She admits “I was watching the film Some Came Running, and Shirley Maclaine’s character carries around a ratty, beaten up stuffed rabbit for the entire movie that is actually a purse. She’s constantly unzipping it and powdering her nose. I became obsessed and decided I needed to make a leather bunny.” 

When designers are inspired by a certain things or events, it's a sad fact that quite often, designers can become too literal, however Coon seems to be the complete opposite. Her S/S 2 011 collection being inspired by jelly fish, you find it hard to see how her collection came from such n aquatic inspiration. although subtle touches such as bubble shaped qualities coming from the jellyfish we can see the focus is more towards Coon's feel with dark, edgy draping and impactful silhouettes. She’s known for her use of fabrics and textures, layering block colours, often black on black and draping silhouettes, and this collection definitely showed this off. This collection has prominent draping to one side, and use of block colours such as bright orange and off whites mixed with a harsh black. I loved the shoot featuring in Dazed of this collection, with its ‘film camera’ effect and tired eyes you can see a clear relation between this and the neo-Goth subculture.

She continued the same techniques throughout her A/W 2011 collection but with a harsher dark side to it, and although we can see Coon favours with black her collection if far from dull with sutl detailing and splashes of deep red. With more boyish cuts, and the use of layering sheers and leathers to create a more gothic look, yet still carrying the feminine draping look. With heavy buckled waists, leather trimmings, a splash of tie dye and bulky silhouettes she has created the perfect collection to represent the neo-Goth subculture. The collection follows the same style an theme to what the neo-goth subculture follows, with a bit more elegance to it, yet still rough round the edges with accessorise such as large leather backpacks and chunky buckeled belts. And with the styling touches of boy cut hair, lop sided dip dying and blacked out eyes it furthers this. I couldn’t think of a better designer for this subculture.

I found this image from Bust magazine, again with he 'film camera' look. I just love the use of textures and mixing feminine and masculine to create that Androgynous feel to the collection and that 'new', slick neo-Goth look. She said the inspiration for this collection was an image of her mother in 1979 dressed in highwasted trousers and a sleek turtle neck that she became 'obsessed' with and used this as her starting point for the collection, as well as photos from Man ray and Helmut Newton. 

Man Ray

...

black sleeveless blazer with leather lapel, large leather buttons and tassels coming from the bottom to the calf making it into a kind of dress...

London Fashion Week- timetable.

Designers.

Martin Margiela- A belgium fashion designer who originally worked for Jean Paul Gaultier before launching his own collection in 1989, he then became creative director for Hermes women line in 1997.
Hes known for his new generation of fashion, with quirky touches using things like hair to create garments.

Rick Owens- is an american fashion designer known fo his avant garde and subversive eye. he started his own label in 1994 selling exclusively to Charles Gallay, a pioneering Los Angeles retailer. He showed his first runway collection in September 2002 at new york fashion week.

His designs are often very gothic and monochrome using lots of leathers and heavy layering.

Gareth Pugh- Again a very monochrome designer,  with exetreme gothic influence, who interned with rick owens. However gareth pugh takes his designs that bit further. He started at Central St Martins after hs intern which is where he was discovered for his inflatable collection where he accentuate models' joints and limbs which almost became his trade mark. He often uses leathers and PVC to create new and bold silhouettes ith a modern gothic feel to them.

London Fashion Week- Sunday.

Pam Hogg- Altough there was a few blips along the way the show turned out to be incredible! The collection had a real mixtue beginning with black and brown pvc pieces moving onto neon bark printed catsuits and finishing with a dash of velour and glitter worn by Daisy Lowe and Alice Dellal!

 

 

London Fashion Week- Sunday.

Charlie Le Mindu- Most incredibe show i’ve seen this year! the scene was set by beginnig theshow in pitch black and a nude model walking onto the catwalk dripping in pigs blood, wearing a sign above her head emblazoned with the word ‘VIOLENCE’. Th collection consisting of nude, lace, antichrists,blood and clear PVC there was no doubt it would make a big impact! Inspired by the glamour and grit of the Berlin brothel ‘Salon kitty,’ the film ‘Carrie’ and the ostensibly repressed era of the Second World War, Le Mindu said he explored the extremes of femininity and sodomy in his shocking show.
The show then finished with the sound of squeeling pigs at the slaughterhouse! Intense!

 

 

London fashion Week- Saturday.

Julian J Smith- An incredible crowd for this show including Beth ditto who was celebrating her 30th birthday! The collection featured contrasting textures of leather, wool, crochet and patent which were layered against a palette of grey, black and blood wine red with splashes of teal, creating a really sophisticated but quirky collection.Huge platform buckled biker rock boots added a harder, gothic rock edge to the look, along with patent leather panels which were used to dissect dresses in the collection.

London Fashion Week -Saturday.

Bryce Aime- I was so luckky to be able to get up close to the clothes today and ended up helping out finishing off a few garnments cleaning them up ect and Bryce himself was lovely! With his bold structured pieces we dressed his willowy models with the garnments and what can only be described as spiked helmets.

Bryce Aime explained the inspiration for his collection: “It’s an army from a cold and undefined place where there is a thin line between life and death. Overall, ‘Militarium’ [the title of the collection] is a little bit soft and hard.”

Louyise Gray- This show was insane! After meeting her for the Isabella Blow schollarship i was eager to meet her again, the runway decorated in yellow a red polka dots and balloons, she ad taken this show further than any other designer so far!

      

Gray’s knitwear deconstructed the Aran sweater, with contrasting panels of red and green. Dresses were made from oversized circles squares and rectangles, while Indian beading added another layer to draped dresses overlaid with plaid.

London Fashion Week- Falguni & Shane Peacock’s AW11 show.

So this week Im working London Fashion week heres a few shots from one of the shows today! Beautiful lace and studded detailed garments finished with killer heels and swooped back hair

I also got to see the Ashley Isham catwalk show and the Ada Zanditon Presentation today. also featuring are Exhibitions from the likes of Charlie Le Mindu the Visionanary award winner for Febuary 2011, House of Flora and Bronwen Marshall!

Designers.

Raf Simons- A Belgain Meswear designer, combining clean, and classic cuts with something out of place abit baggy and streetwise.

Yohju Yamamoto- Japanese fashion designer based in Paris and Tokyo. Known for his oversized black draping silhouettes

Rei Kawakubo-  A japanese fashion designer and the founder of Commes Des Garcons. She began as just womens wear and then added a mens line in 1978. Her garments often made to look unfnished a little rough round the edges, with her frayed trimmings and asymetric shapes draping around the body.

Vivienne Westwood- British fashion designer known for her Punk inspired designs and making this subculture mainstream. Known for her contraversial designs often using tartan, leathers and draping bondage techniques to create a collective look.

John Galliano- British fashion designer and head designer for Christian Dior and was previously the deigner for Givenchy. Known for his theatrical ,femine, romntic and fairy tale like designs.

Undercover- Jun Takahashi the found of this japanese label with its unique stylistic references to punk and street fashion, and features finely crafted clothing pieces.

Marc Jacobs- An american fashion designer for Marc Jacobs and also currently Creative Director of the French design house Louis Vuitton.

Issey Miyake- Hes a japanese fasion designer who is now retired fro the fashion world however his company still continue with his overlook. Hes kown for his futuristic, sculptured and technological designs, fragrances and exhibitions.

Nicholas Ghesquiere- currently the creative director for Balenciaga. With designs that blend street style and historical refrences, his signature silhouette being skinny jeans and blouson jackets.