Mandy Coon, is a fairly new designer known for her structural and dark moody designs with her first collection for New York fashion week in S/S 2010, Previously Apprenticing with minimalist desgner Camilla staerk. Mandy coon herself comes very much under the neo-Goth spectrum with her black boy cut hair and black on black style and as she stated “I know you’re not supposed to say this, but honestly, I’m making the clothes I want to wear,” so we know the clothes are going to be inspired by herself and the scenes in which she is associated with. She is also known for her occasional DJ’ing, featuring as a model, and is mad about films. She admits “I was watching the film Some Came Running, and Shirley Maclaine’s character carries around a ratty, beaten up stuffed rabbit for the entire movie that is actually a purse. She’s constantly unzipping it and powdering her nose. I became obsessed and decided I needed to make a leather bunny.”
When designers are inspired by a certain things or events, it's a sad fact that quite often, designers can become too literal, however Coon seems to be the complete opposite. Her S/S 2 011 collection being inspired by jelly fish, you find it hard to see how her collection came from such n aquatic inspiration. although subtle touches such as bubble shaped qualities coming from the jellyfish we can see the focus is more towards Coon's feel with dark, edgy draping and impactful silhouettes. She’s known for her use of fabrics and textures, layering block colours, often black on black and draping silhouettes, and this collection definitely showed this off. This collection has prominent draping to one side, and use of block colours such as bright orange and off whites mixed with a harsh black. I loved the shoot featuring in Dazed of this collection, with its ‘film camera’ effect and tired eyes you can see a clear relation between this and the neo-Goth subculture.
She continued the same techniques throughout her A/W 2011 collection but with a harsher dark side to it, and although we can see Coon favours with black her collection if far from dull with sutl detailing and splashes of deep red. With more boyish cuts, and the use of layering sheers and leathers to create a more gothic look, yet still carrying the feminine draping look. With heavy buckled waists, leather trimmings, a splash of tie dye and bulky silhouettes she has created the perfect collection to represent the neo-Goth subculture. The collection follows the same style an theme to what the neo-goth subculture follows, with a bit more elegance to it, yet still rough round the edges with accessorise such as large leather backpacks and chunky buckeled belts. And with the styling touches of boy cut hair, lop sided dip dying and blacked out eyes it furthers this. I couldn’t think of a better designer for this subculture.
I found this image from Bust magazine, again with he 'film camera' look. I just love the use of textures and mixing feminine and masculine to create that Androgynous feel to the collection and that 'new', slick neo-Goth look. She said the inspiration for this collection was an image of her mother in 1979 dressed in highwasted trousers and a sleek turtle neck that she became 'obsessed' with and used this as her starting point for the collection, as well as photos from Man ray and Helmut Newton.
Man Ray
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